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Troubleshooting

Solve shooting problems

Last updated: September 13, 2026

The camera is connected, but something doesn't go as planned: a task won't start, the shutter doesn't fire, or photos don't turn up where you expect. Find your problem below. For tasks, the reason is usually written right under the settings — in the summary card, in orange.

Interval Shooting won't start

  • Start time is in the past. The Start at date and time has already passed — easy to miss when you set it yesterday. Pick a time in the future, or set Start to Immediately.
  • End time is in the past or End time must be after start time. Move End at (or End time) later than the start.
  • Interval must be longer than shutter speed. A shot can't begin before the previous one has finished. Make the interval longer, or use a faster shutter speed. In Bulb mode, the Exposure Time on the Camera tab counts as the shutter speed.
  • Number of frames must be greater than 0, Interval must be greater than 0, Delay must be 0 or greater. Enter a value in the field named in the message.

Exposure Bracketing isn't available

Bracketing needs to change shutter speed or aperture, which the camera only allows in M, Av and Tv. If the Exposure tab says bracketing can't be used in the current camera mode, turn the mode dial to one of these. See Bracket exposures for HDR.

Focus Bracketing won't start or focus doesn't move

  • Start Live View to begin. Focus bracketing works only in Live View. Click Start in the Live View card on the Focus tab.
  • Focus doesn't change between shots. Set the switch on the lens to AF — in MF the camera ignores focus commands. Lenses without an autofocus motor, such as fully manual lenses, can't be focused from the Mac.
  • Every shot looks the same at the end of the series. Focus has reached the end of the lens's range (the closest distance or infinity). Reverse the step direction, or take fewer shots.

Every Start button is greyed out

Only one automated task can run on a camera at a time. Look for a dot on the Tasks tab and the Interval, Focus and Exposure tabs — that task is still running. Stop it, or wait for it to finish.

The camera doesn't fire

  • Autofocus can't lock. In One-Shot AF, Canon cameras won't release the shutter until focus is confirmed — in low light or on a plain surface that may never happen. Focus first, then switch the lens to MF.
  • The card is full or locked. Check the camera's display. With Save to camera and Mac selected, every shot needs space on the card.
  • A window offering DSLR Assistant Pro appears. Releasing the shutter from the Mac, video recording and the automated tasks are part of Pro. See Pricing; if you've already bought Pro, click Restore Purchases in that window.

A shot doesn't show up in the library

  • You're looking at a different folder. The Next Image section at the bottom of the Library tab shows exactly which folder new photos go to.
  • Only the JPG was copied. With Download only JPG when shooting RAW+JPG turned on in Settings → General, the RAW files stay on the card by design.
  • The library drive isn't connected. If your library is on an external drive that's unplugged, the filmstrip shows Library Unavailable. Reconnect the drive, or choose another folder in Settings → Files & Folders.
  • The photo was taken while DSLR Assistant wasn't running. Photos are copied only while the app is open and the camera is connected. Import older photos from the card with Finder or your usual photo app.

A time-lapse has gaps

If the progress card shows failed shots, the camera couldn't take a photo when its turn came. The usual causes are an interval too short for the exposure plus the time to save a RAW file, autofocus hunting in the dark, or a full card. Open the Activity Log (the bell in the toolbar) to see what the camera reported for each failed shot.

Camera not connecting at all? See Camera not detected or disconnecting.

Still stuck? Contact support →